EGO assembly
The same company sells the same battery as 20V in America and 18V in Britain. Same cells, different disclosure rules.
Five lithium cells in series read about 18 volts under load and about 20 the moment they come off the charger. American labeling can quote the peak; British and European rules require the working figure. Pro Tool Reviews put it plainly: 18V and 20V MAX batteries produce exactly the same voltage.
The number on the box is not the decision
Cordless equipment is the only part of this category where the purchase is not really a purchase of a machine. It is a purchase of a battery platform, and the machine is what you happen to buy first. That makes the shopping comparison unusually consequential, and unusually easy to get wrong, because the most prominent number on the box is the one that means least.
Start with the number. Eighteen volt and twenty volt MAX systems are the same voltage. Pro Tool Reviews state it twice for emphasis, that 18V batteries and 20V MAX batteries produce exactly the same voltage. The arithmetic is simple: five lithium cells in series, nominal cell voltage around 3.6 volts giving 18 volts as the working figure, and maximum cell voltage off the charger around 4.0 to 4.2 volts giving 20 to 21 volts for the moment before you pull the trigger.
The detail that settles the question is not an argument but a manufacturer’s own behavior. DeWalt sells the identical battery as 20V MAX in the United States and 18V XR in the United Kingdom, using the same internal cells with no hardware difference, because American labeling may advertise the peak voltage measured with no load while British and European rules require the nominal figure. One company, one battery, two numbers, decided by which market you are standing in. The disclosure is on the American box too, in three languages, noting that the maximum initial battery voltage measured without a workload is twenty volts.
None of which means the tools are equivalent, and it is worth being clear about that. Performance differences are real, they just come from somewhere else: tool design, brushless versus brushed motors, and the quality of the cells, which one publication notes varies between brands and even within a brand. The voltage label is what is equivalent. The products are not, and neither are the platforms, which is the thing actually worth comparing.
What it actually takes
This is an hour of research that determines what you can buy for the next several years.
| Model | Time | People |
|---|---|---|
| Ignoring the voltage number on the boxIt is a labeling convention, not a spec. | 0 minutes | 1 |
| Counting the tools on each platformOne is described as 275+, another as 100+. | 30 minutes | 1 |
| Listing the tools you expect to want in four yearsThe battery commits you to that list. | 15 minutes | 1 |
| Comparing amp-hours rather than voltageAh is what sets how long you can work. | 15 minutes | 1 |
| Checking brushless versus brushed on the tools you wantThis is where real performance differences live. | 20 minutes | 1 |
| Pricing bare tools versus kitsOnce you own batteries, bare tools change the math. | 20 minutes | 1 |
| Checking charger count and speedTwo batteries and one slow charger is one battery. | 10 minutes | 1 |
| Checking official adapter paths within the brandAnd which direction they run. | 15 minutes | 1 |
The useful question is not which tool is best this weekend. It is which platform will still sell the tool you want in four years, because that is what the batteries commit you to.
What to get right, specifically
Eighteen volts and twenty volts MAX are the same battery
The clearest way to stop overpaying for a number. Pro Tool Reviews say it twice deliberately: 18V batteries and 20V MAX batteries produce exactly the same voltage. Five lithium cells in series give roughly 18 volts nominal, which is the working voltage, and roughly 20 to 21 volts maximum off the charger, which drops fast the moment the tool is under load. American labeling may quote the peak; the asterisk on a DeWalt box says so in three languages, noting the maximum initial battery voltage measured without a workload is twenty volts. Which brands use which convention is worth knowing too: Bosch, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi and Makita run on 18V platforms, while DeWalt, Craftsman and Porter-Cable use 20V MAX.
The proof is that one company uses both labels for one product
This is the fact that ends the argument, because it is not an interpretation of marketing but a manufacturer doing both things at once. DeWalt’s 20V MAX in the United States and 18V XR in the United Kingdom use the same internal lithium-ion cells with no hardware difference. The reason is regulatory: American rules permit advertising the peak voltage measured with no load, while British and European rules require the nominal voltage. So the same battery, from the same company, carries a different number depending on which market it is sold in. If voltage labels described a physical property, that could not happen.
The practice is less cynical than it looks, and the history explains it
Worth knowing so that this does not read as one brand behaving badly, because the convention was industry-wide before DeWalt adopted it. Milwaukee avoided the problem entirely by never quoting voltage at all, branding their lines M12 and M18, which one publication calls a clever way to brand a 12-volt-class line without having to describe it as 10.8V. Bosch moved from 10.8V to 12V Max in mid-2008 and Makita followed. DeWalt then adopted the 12V Max convention, and when their lithium 18V line launched they used 20V Max. Their stated reason was to create a distinction between their older, largely NiCad 18V system and the new slide-style battery line, which is a genuine problem: two incompatible systems that would otherwise both have been called 18V.
You are choosing a platform, and the batteries are what lock it in
The actual decision, and the one the voltage comparison distracts from. Batteries are not interchangeable between brands, so the first purchase commits you to an ecosystem. The scale of that commitment is worth quantifying before making it: one platform is described as covering more than two hundred and seventy-five solutions, another as letting batteries be shared among more than a hundred tools. So the question to ask is not which tool wins a review this month but which platform will still be selling the tool you want in four years, because at that point you will own several batteries and a charger and the switching cost is most of the value of the collection.
Amp-hours decide how long you work. Voltage does not
Once the voltage question is settled, this is the number that matters and it is set by different wiring. Cells are always arranged in groups of five wired in series, which is what sets the voltage, and those groups are then wired in parallel to increase amp-hours and total capacity in watt-hours. So series determines the voltage label and parallel determines the runtime, which is why comparing amp-hours across two batteries at the same nominal voltage is a real comparison while comparing 18 against 20 is not. The related purchase point: a second battery is usually worth more than a more powerful tool, and two batteries with one slow charger is functionally one battery.
The official adapter runs the opposite way from what people assume
A genuinely useful practical fact. Within DeWalt, there is no official adapter that lets older 18V NiCad batteries run newer 20V MAX tools. The migration path works the other way: an adapter lets new 20V MAX batteries run in most older 18V tools, so you can upgrade batteries without replacing an entire tool collection. That is worth understanding as a general shape rather than a single part number, because it means the supported upgrade path protects the tools you already own rather than the batteries you already own. Batteries are consumable and tools are not, and the adapters follow that logic.
Cross-brand adapters exist, and notice who is telling you about them
One guide in circulation states that batteries from different brands are often cross-compatible with the right adapter, and that guide is published by a company that sells adapters. That is worth naming rather than repeating as neutral advice. Manufacturers do not support cross-brand adapters, warranty positions are unlikely to survive one, and a battery management system communicating with a tool it was not designed for is not a small thing to improvise. If cross-brand compatibility matters to you, the reliable way to get it is to choose one platform, which is the same conclusion from the other direction.
The equivalence is the label, not the tools
Worth stating so that nobody takes the wrong lesson from all of this. Establishing that 18V and 20V MAX are the same voltage does not establish that the tools are the same. Performance variation is real and comes from tool design, motor efficiency including brushless versus brushed, and cell quality, which one publication notes differs between brands and even within a single brand. So the voltage number can be ignored and the rest of the specification cannot. And a caution about the reading you will do: this subject has a lot of poor content, including one guide in the search results claiming a 20V Max battery has five cells while an 18V battery has four, which contradicts the arithmetic every credible source gives and is simply wrong.
Before buying the first tool
Disregard the voltage number as a comparison between brands.
List the tools you expect to want on this platform over the next few years.
Count how many tools each platform actually offers.
Compare amp-hours between batteries at the same nominal voltage.
Check whether the specific tools you want are brushless.
Price bare tools as well as kits, since that changes once you own batteries.
Budget for a second battery and an adequate charger rather than a bigger tool.
Check what official adapter paths exist within the brand, and which direction they run.
Who this is really for
Anybody buying their first cordless machine, which is the moment the platform gets chosen whether or not anybody frames it that way. The mower or the trimmer is the visible purchase and the battery standard is the durable one, and the second is much harder to change later.
It also matters for anybody comparing across brands on the shelf, because the most prominent number is the least meaningful one and the higher figure belongs to whichever brand chose the peak-voltage convention. Somebody buying a twenty volt over an eighteen volt for the extra power is buying a measurement convention.
There is no professional needed here at all, which is worth saying plainly on a directory page. This is a research decision, and this page exists so it can be made on the things that vary rather than the thing that does not. What an installer or assembler is useful for is everything after the box is open, which the other pages in this category cover: the machine that ships without oil, the generator placed too close to the house, the fuel that goes stale, the chain that will not stay tensioned, and the shear pin somebody is about to replace with the wrong bolt.
What a good buying decision looks like
- Voltage labels treated as a convention rather than a specification.
- Platform breadth assessed by counting available tools, not by brand reputation.
- A list made of tools wanted over several years, before the first battery is bought.
- Amp-hours compared between batteries at the same nominal voltage.
- Brushless versus brushed checked on the specific tools wanted.
- Bare tool pricing considered alongside kits.
- A second battery and an adequate charger budgeted from the start.
- Official within-brand adapter paths checked, and their direction understood.
- Cross-brand adapters avoided rather than relied on.
- Cell and tool quality assessed separately from the voltage label.
Get it built by someone who has built one before.
Tell us your ZIP and what you bought. Installers near you will quote you directly, and you deal with them, not with us.
Questions people ask
Is a 20V tool more powerful than an 18V one?
No. Pro Tool Reviews state it twice for emphasis: 18V batteries and 20V MAX batteries produce exactly the same voltage. Five lithium cells in series give about 18 volts under load and about 20 to 21 volts for a moment off the charger, and American labeling may quote the peak. The asterisk on the box says so, noting that the maximum initial battery voltage measured without a workload is twenty volts.
How can that be true if the numbers are different?
Because the numbers measure different moments. And the decisive evidence is a manufacturer doing both at once: DeWalt sells the same battery as 20V MAX in the United States and 18V XR in the United Kingdom, using the same internal cells with no hardware difference, because American rules permit advertising peak no-load voltage while British and European rules require the nominal figure. If the label described a physical property, one company could not use both for one product.
Which brands use which label?
Bosch, Milwaukee, Ridgid, Ryobi and Makita run on 18V platforms, while DeWalt, Craftsman and Porter-Cable use 20V MAX. Milwaukee sidestep the question entirely by never quoting voltage, branding their lines M12 and M18, which one publication describes as a clever way to brand a 12-volt-class line without calling it 10.8V. The convention spread industry-wide before DeWalt adopted it, with Bosch moving to 12V Max in 2008 and Makita following.
What should I compare instead?
Amp-hours, tool specification, and platform breadth. Cells are wired in series to set voltage and in parallel to increase amp-hours and watt-hours, so amp-hours is what determines how long you can work while the voltage label does not. Then look at whether the tools you want are brushless, and at how many tools the platform actually offers, since one is described as covering more than 275 solutions and another as sharing batteries among more than 100 tools.
Can I use my old batteries in new tools?
Usually not, and the supported path runs the other way. Within DeWalt there is no official adapter letting older 18V NiCad batteries run newer 20V MAX tools, while an adapter does let new 20V MAX batteries run in most older 18V tools. So the official upgrade path protects the tool collection you already own rather than the batteries, which makes sense given batteries are consumable and tools are not.
What about adapters between brands?
They exist and it is worth noticing who recommends them. One guide describing batteries as often cross-compatible with the right adapter is published by a company that sells adapters. Manufacturers do not support cross-brand adapters, warranty positions are unlikely to survive one, and having a battery management system talk to a tool it was not designed for is not a small improvisation. If sharing batteries matters, the reliable route is to commit to one platform.
Installers.org is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by EGO, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, Ryobi, Ridgid, Craftsman, Porter-Cable or any other manufacturer referenced here. All marks belong to their owners and are referred to here only to describe the assembly and setup services that independent providers on this directory offer. The 18V and 20V MAX comparison is used because it is thoroughly documented; the same maximum-versus-nominal labeling convention applies across cordless categories, but no nominal voltage figures are given here for 40V, 56V, 60V or 80V outdoor equipment platforms because those were not verified. Tool counts and platform figures are as reported by the sources cited and change constantly. Nothing here endorses cross-brand battery adapters, which manufacturers do not support.