LG assembly

The power cord is bolted to the back of the machine on purpose. Freeing it only removes one of the four bolts.

LG fastens the cord with a shipping bolt specifically to stop the washer being run with the bolts in, which tells you how common and how expensive that mistake is. It is also only a partial defense: you have to take out one bolt to plug it in, and three more can stay exactly where they are while you load it and press start.

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A front loader is a heavy drum hanging on springs, and in the truck it cannot be

The drum in a front load washer is heavy, carries a concrete counterweight, and is deliberately not attached to the outer case. It hangs on springs and shock absorbers so that a badly balanced load at high spin speed is absorbed by the suspension rather than transmitted into the cabinet and across your laundry room floor. That suspension is the machine.

It is also completely wrong for transport. A drum free to swing on its springs will stretch them and hit things if the machine is tilted onto a dolly or laid on its back in a truck, so the manufacturer bolts the tub rigidly to the frame for the journey. LG uses four shipping bolts with plastic retainers, and a foam block in the base underneath.

Which means every new front loader arrives in exactly the state it must not be run in, and the entire installation turns on undoing that. If the bolts stay in, the suspension cannot do its job, and the vibration goes straight into the frame. LG states the outcome plainly: failure to remove the shipping bolts and retainers may cause severe vibration and noise, which can lead to permanent damage to the washer. The parts that suffer are the springs and dampers that the bolts were protecting in the first place.

LG clearly knows how often this happens, because they engineered against it. The power cord is fastened to the back of the machine with one of the shipping bolts, so the washer physically cannot be plugged in until a bolt comes out. It is a genuinely clever piece of design. It is also why the failure keeps happening in the specific way it does, because removing the bolt that is holding your cord feels like completing the step, and there are three more.

What it actually takes

The connections are quick. Everything that determines whether the machine survives happens before it is pushed into place.

ModelTimePeople
Removing four shipping bolts and retainersBottom two first, counterclockwise, included wrench.15 to 20 minutes1
Capping the holesCaps are in the accessory pack. Do not skip.5 minutes1
Tilting back to check for the foam blockLG says two people. It is heavy and awkward.10 minutes2
Fitting inlet hoses and drain hoseNew hoses. No kinks or sharp bends in the drain.20 to 30 minutes1
Positioning and leveling on the feetLoosen locknut, adjust, retighten. Rock it diagonally.20 to 40 minutes1 to 2
Test spin and vibration checkEmpty spin first, then a real load.20 minutes1
Stacking a dryer, if applicableDo the washer completely first. Access disappears.add 45 to 60 minutes2
Storing the bolts somewhere findableThey are needed the next time it moves.2 minutes1

If the machine is going under a counter or into a closet, or a dryer is going on top of it, finish the washer entirely first. The back of the machine is the hardest place to reach once anything else is in position.

What to get right, specifically

Four bolts. The one holding the cord is only the first

LG fastens the power cord to the back of the washer with a shipping bolt precisely to prevent operation with the bolts in place, and it is an excellent idea that solves most of the problem. What it cannot do is make you remove the other three. Count them. LG’s own sequence is to start with the bottom two, use the wrench included with the machine, and turn counterclockwise to take out all four. Then remove the plastic retainers by turning them slightly while pulling. If a bolt will not come out, LG says service is required rather than force.

The ten second test that works on any front loader, any time

This is the most useful thing on the page and it needs no tools at all. Open the door and push the tub gently forward and backward. If it moves, the shipping bolts are out and the suspension is doing its job. If it feels solid, the bolts are still in. LG publishes exactly this test, and it is worth knowing for reasons beyond a new install: it works on a machine somebody else delivered and set up, on a used machine, on a rental, and on any front loader that has been making an alarming noise. A tub that does not move is a tub bolted to the frame.

Cap the holes once the bolts are out

The accessory pack contains hole caps, and they are the step most likely to be skipped because the machine works without them. LG’s instruction is to rotate and press them into the empty shipping bolt holes. Those holes go through the rear panel into the cabinet, and leaving them open is an invitation for dust, lint and anything else in a laundry room to get inside the machine over the years. It takes two minutes with the machine still pulled out and it is properly annoying to do later.

There is a foam block too, and the bolt count will not find it

This is the one that defeats people who did the bolts correctly. LG front load washers ship with a foam block in the base supporting the tub, and it can remain wedged under the tub after every bolt is out. The result is a machine that passes every check you know about and still vibrates hard. LG’s instruction is to tilt the washer back and look, with the explicit caution to do it with two people to avoid injury. Do that as part of the install rather than as troubleshooting three weeks later, because by then the machine is in a corner with a dryer on top of it.

Keep the bolts, and put them somewhere you will find them

The bolts exist to stop the weighted drum swinging and stretching the springs and dampers when the machine is tilted or laid down. That risk does not go away after installation day; it comes back the day you move house, or the day somebody wheels the machine out to redo the floor. Tape the four bolts, the retainers and the wrench together in a bag and tape the bag to the back of the machine, or put it with the manual. The alternative is what usually happens, which is a front loader making a cross-country move with an unrestrained drum.

Level it properly, and understand what levelness is doing here

On most appliances leveling is about looking right. On a front loader spinning at high speed it is structural. LG’s method is to loosen the locknut on a foot, adjust it up or down until vibration is minimized, then tighten the locknut so the setting cannot drift. Test by placing your hands on diagonal corners and trying to rock the machine, then repeat on the other diagonal. The floor matters as much as the feet: LG specifies level, solid flooring, and a wood floor with any flex under the weight of the machine will produce vibration that no amount of foot adjustment fixes.

Do the whole washer before a dryer goes on top

Stacking is common and it makes everything behind the washer unreachable. Finish completely first: bolts out, retainers out, caps in, foam block checked, hoses connected, machine leveled, and a test spin run. Only then stack. If a stacked machine turns out to have a shipping bolt still in it or a foam block underneath, fixing it means unstacking a dryer, which is a two-person job in a space that is usually a closet. This is the single best argument for doing the checks in order rather than the order things come to hand.

If it has already been run with the bolts in, stop and have it looked at

Opinions circulate on both sides of this and none of them are LG’s. What LG says is that the failure can lead to permanent damage, and the components at risk are the suspension springs and shock absorbers. What that means in practice depends on how many cycles were run and at what spin speed, which nobody on the internet knows about your machine. The sensible response is to stop using it, remove the bolts, run an empty spin, and if there is any unusual noise, movement or knocking, have it inspected while it is still a warranty conversation rather than a repair bill.

Before you start

Confirm you have the wrench that ships with the machine and the accessory pack with the hole caps.

Plan for two people at the point where the machine gets tilted back.

Check the floor is solid and level where the machine will sit, and note any flex.

Have new inlet hoses rather than reusing old ones.

Check the drain arrangement and that the hose can run without kinks or sharp bends.

Work out the final position before connecting anything, especially if a dryer is going on top.

Have a bag and tape ready for storing the bolts, retainers and wrench.

Leave enough room behind the machine to reach all four bolts before it is pushed back.

Who this is really for

Anyone buying a front load washer, which is most people buying a washer. The machines are efficient, gentle on clothes and quiet when they are set up correctly, and the difference between quiet and alarming is almost entirely installation rather than product. LG builds a lot of them and documents this part unusually well.

It matters more than usual in an apartment, on an upper floor, or over a wood subfloor, because those are the places where a vibration problem is not just annoying but a neighbor relations problem. It also matters for stacked laundry closets, where fixing anything afterward means dismantling the stack.

The case for having somebody do it is that the whole job is a sequence, and the expensive mistakes all happen in the first twenty minutes, behind a machine, before anything is connected. Somebody who does this weekly counts four bolts without thinking, tilts the machine to check for foam as a matter of routine, levels against the locknuts rather than by eye, and runs a test spin before leaving. They will also tell you honestly whether your floor is the actual problem, which is the diagnosis nobody wants and quite a few laundry rooms need.

What an installer does

  • Removes all four shipping bolts and the plastic retainers, starting from the bottom pair.
  • Fits the supplied hole caps into the empty bolt holes.
  • Tilts the machine back with a second person to confirm the foam tub support is out.
  • Confirms the tub moves freely by hand before the machine goes into position.
  • Fits new inlet hoses and routes the drain hose without kinks or sharp bends.
  • Positions and levels the machine using the feet and locknuts, testing on both diagonals.
  • Assesses the floor and flags flex or an unlevel surface that adjustment cannot fix.
  • Runs an empty spin and checks for vibration and movement before handing over.
  • Stacks a dryer only after the washer is fully finished and tested.
  • Bags the bolts, retainers and wrench and leaves them where they will be found.

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Questions people ask

How do I know if the shipping bolts have been removed?

Open the door and push the tub forward and backward. If it moves, they are out. If it feels solid, they are still in. That is LG’s own test and it takes ten seconds with no tools, which makes it worth doing on any front loader you did not install yourself, including a used machine or one that arrived already set up.

How many shipping bolts are there?

Four, plus plastic retainers, on an LG front loader. LG fastens the power cord with one of them so the machine cannot be plugged in without removing at least one, which is a deliberate safeguard. It is also why people miss the rest: freeing the cord feels like completing the step. Count all four out, then remove the retainers by turning them slightly while pulling.

My washer vibrates badly and the bolts are definitely out. What now?

Check for the foam block. LG front loaders ship with a foam support in the base that can stay wedged under the tub after every bolt is removed. Tilt the machine back and look, using two people. After that, look at leveling and the floor itself, since LG specifies level, solid flooring and a floor with flex will produce vibration that no foot adjustment will cure.

What happens if I ran it with the bolts in?

LG says failure to remove them may cause severe vibration and noise that can lead to permanent damage, with the suspension springs and shock absorbers most at risk. How much harm depends on how many cycles and at what spin speed, which is not something to guess at. Stop using it, remove the bolts, run an empty spin, and if there is any unusual noise, knocking or movement, get it inspected while it is still under warranty.

Should I keep the shipping bolts?

Yes. They exist to stop the weighted drum swinging and stretching the springs and dampers when the machine is tilted or laid down, and that is exactly what happens the next time it moves. Bag the bolts, the retainers and the wrench together and tape them to the back of the machine or keep them with the manual.

What is the most commonly missed step?

Two compete. Removing only the bolt that was holding the power cord, and skipping the hole caps. The first can damage the machine and the second lets dust and lint into the cabinet through four open holes in the back panel for the rest of its life. Both take minutes while the machine is still pulled out and both are awkward once it is in place.

Installers.org is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by LG. LG and related marks are trademarks of their owner, referred to here only to describe the installation services that independent installers on this directory provide. Bolt counts, accessory contents and procedures vary by model; follow the instructions supplied with your own machine. Water supply and drain connections are subject to local plumbing code.