Mount it to studs or the warranty is gone. That is NewAge’s wording, not a safety suggestion.

Studs are a warranty condition, and there is no drywall option

NewAge states that all cabinets must be mounted to studs on a secure wall, that failure to do so may result in serious injury, and that it voids the product warranty and the manufacturer’s liability. Their guides give no drywall-only method at all, which is unusual and deliberate. They supply three inch lag screws marked Grade 5 and repeatedly specify full three inch engagement into wood studs. If a mounting point does not land on a stud, the answer is not a heavier drywall anchor, it is blocking.

The concrete stem wall is the garage-specific obstacle

Most garages have a concrete stem wall at the base, typically a foot or more high, and it usually protrudes an inch or so beyond the framing above. That means the bottom of your wall has no studs to hit, and the cabinets will not sit flush against both surfaces. The usual solutions are to lag a substantial ledger into the studs above the curb and hang the cabinets from that, or to use concrete anchors into the stem wall itself. Either way it needs deciding before the cabinets go up, and it affects the finished height of your countertop, so it is a measuring decision rather than an improvisation.

If a bracket lands between studs, add blocking

This is where NewAge’s documentation is better than most, and it is worth following. When a mounting point falls in a stud bay, the correct fix is to add wood blocking behind the drywall so there is solid wood to lag into. That is real work, sometimes involving opening and patching drywall, and it is the honest cost of putting heavy cabinets exactly where you want them rather than where the studs happen to be. Plan the layout around the studs first, and use blocking only where the layout genuinely will not move.

Wall cabinets and base cabinets are not rated the same

People read one impressive capacity figure and apply it to the whole set. Base and tool cabinets are rated up to around a thousand pounds, while wall cabinets are rated around two hundred. That is a fivefold difference and it matters, because the wall units are the ones people fill with paint cans and heavy tool cases. Load the floor-standing units heavy and keep the wall units within their rating.

A floating installation is a different rating

NewAge address this directly in their own support material: whether the capacity stays the same when cabinets are installed without the feet on the floor, in a floating configuration. It is a popular look, since it makes the floor easier to sweep and hose out, and it means the wall alone carries everything rather than sharing the load with the leveling feet. Check the rating for the way you are actually installing them rather than assuming the headline figure applies.

With slatwall, the wall system is usually the limit

Slatwall brackets are sold separately, and NewAge tells you to check with your slatwall supplier for its rated capacity and not to overload it. That is the right warning, because the weak point is rarely the bracket. It is the slatwall panel and how that panel is fixed to the wall behind it. A shelf rated for a hundred pounds hanging on a panel rated for far less is a panel failure waiting to happen, and it takes everything on it down at once.

Level first, tighten last, and take the drawers out before lifting

Two practical ones from their guides. Set the leveling feet, get the run of cabinets level and aligned, and only then tighten everything down, because tightening as you go locks in whatever misalignment you had at the time. And pull the drawers out before lifting a cabinet into place, then reinstall them on the full-extension glides afterward. A tool cabinet with its drawers removed is a substantially different lift, and NewAge warns about the weight hazard for good reason.