Whether a wired Ring works is decided by a small box near your breaker panel you have probably never looked at.

The transformer is the gate, and its rating is a specification

Find it before you buy. It is usually near the main electrical panel, in a closet, a basement or a garage, sometimes attached to the chime itself, and it should be labeled with a low voltage such as 8V, 16V or 24V. Check it against the requirement for the specific Ring model you want, since the wired models differ. If it is undersized, the doorbell will appear to work and then misbehave under load, which is a much more frustrating outcome than it simply not powering up.

Line voltage will destroy the doorbell, and it is a shock hazard

Ring is unambiguous that their video doorbells are not compatible with line voltage and that connecting one directly to line voltage will damage it. Thick wiring in the chime housing, or a chime with no step-down transformer anywhere in the circuit, are signs you are looking at a line-voltage system rather than a low-voltage one. That situation needs a qualified electrician to fit the correct transformer, not an adapter and optimism. Turn the power off at the breaker or fuse box before opening anything.

Your existing chime may not survive the upgrade, by design

This surprises people after the fact. Ring states that the Wired Doorbell Pro (3rd Gen), other than when powered over Ethernet, and the Wired Doorbell Plus (2nd Gen) are not compatible with existing chimes, and that you use a plug-in chime kit indoors instead. They also note that keeping an existing chime with the Pro models involves a more advanced installation. If the ding-dong in your hallway matters to you, check that before choosing a model rather than afterward.

Photograph the existing wiring before you touch it

Ring itself suggests taking a photo of the existing chime wiring before you begin, so it can be restored later if you ever want the original doorbell back. It takes ten seconds and it is the difference between an easy reversal and working out from scratch which wire went where, particularly in a chime housing where the terminals are unlabeled and the wire colors have faded.

Check the voltage in the app rather than assuming

Once the device is set up, the Ring app reports the voltage it is actually seeing. That is a genuinely useful diagnostic, because it converts an argument about whether the supply is adequate into a number. If the reading is at or below the bottom of the range for your model, the transformer is the thing to address, and no amount of remounting or reconfiguring will fix it.

Long wire runs and second doorbells both eat power

Two situations quietly starve a doorbell. A long cable run, on the order of a hundred feet or more, drops voltage along the way, which is why a higher-voltage transformer is often used to compensate on larger houses. And where a front and back door share one transformer, both devices draw from the same supply, so the total demand has to fit within its rating with some margin. Either can produce a doorbell that works most of the time and fails when it matters.

Aim and height matter more than they seem

A doorbell mounted too high shows the tops of heads and misses packages on the step. Ring supply wedge and angle mounts because door surrounds are rarely square to the approach, and a device pointed at the far wall of a porch gives poor motion detection and worse footage. Consider what the camera should actually see, including the walkway and the delivery spot, before the fasteners go into brick.